the threads

5).

Mill term for the method of altering the warp shed in a loom to give the fabric fullness. The back rest is raised so that the bottom shed line of warp is depressed more below the warp line than the top shed is raised above it. Thus greater tension is put on the threads in the bottom shed line than on those forming the top shed, hence the latter give better cover.

The extra warp threads which form the figuring in lappet cloths. These threads do not interweave with the other warp threads, but zigzag to and fro in forming the figure and are held permanently in position by passing underneath picks of weft at the reversing points.

A term used in some districts for the thick threads used as padding in such fabrics as Bedford cords and which lie between the face and back of the cloth, inter-weaving with no threads. These yarns are usually of cheaper material than the face yarns.

These are threads which form the furrows in cord fabrics by dividing the ribs as seen in Bedford cords. They are interlaced with the weft in plain weave order.

The weaver's term for broken warp or weft threads which lie loosely upon the surface of the fabric.

Stuffer threads used to give weight to a fabric or enhance the prominence of the design as in toilet fabrics, matelasses, etc. (See Wadded Cloths)

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

These are exceedingly useful machines for forming the shed in weaving, since they can be used for both simple and complicated weaves. There are many types in use, most of which are negative acting in so far as they only lift the healds, springs being used beneath the healds to bring them down again after being lifted by the dobby. In the cotton trade 16 up 20 jacks is usual. Dobbies in common use are known as single lift, double lift, negative, positive, open shed, closed shed, and crossborder. Single Lift - In this type there is a single knife or griffe in use to raise the heald stave. The whole of the shafts return to their original position after each pick. A fresh selection of staves to be raised is made for each pick. Looms fitted with this dobby run slower than others, about 140 picks per minute. Double Lift - These machines are fitted with double selecting and lifting parts which move at half the speed of the loom. They give an open or semi-open shed. The speed of the loom is considerably more than for the single-lift type. Crossborder - This machine is used when headings or a change of weave is required as for bordered handkerchiefs, serviettes, towels, etc. Positive - Dobby machines which make an open shed and positively lift and depress the heald staves as required by the design. Negative - Dobbies which only lift the heald staves, and require springs or other means to move the staves to the bottom position. Centre Shed - Every thread of the warp is moved for every new shed. The shed opens from the middle. Some healds ascend and the others descend. Closed Shed - So termed because all the warp threads are brought to one level after each succeeding pick as in single-lift machines. Open Shed - The type generally used for automatic looms, also the double-lift machines. After a heald stave is lifted it remains up until it is required to be down again. The warp threads constantly form two lines, upper and lower, and the only changes are when threads move from line to the other. Semi-open Shed - This shed has a stationary bottom line, and to make changes, threads pass from the top to the bottom, or from the bottom to the top. The threads which remain up for more than one pick in succession only fall halfway and then go to the top again.

נִירIV m. (v. preced.; cmp. jugum a. ζυγόν, v. Sm. Ant. s. v. Tela) cross-beam of the loom, also the cross-rod under the cross-beam (liciatorium) to which the ends of the leashes are fastened; trnsf. (mostly pl.) נִירִים, נִירִין the leashes or thrums to which the threads of the warp are fastened; also the warp. Gen. R. s. 94, v. פָּתַל. B. Kam. 119b אין לוקחין … ולא נ׳ you must not buy from the weaver remnants of woof or of warp threads. Kel. XXI, 1 הנוגע … בנ׳ he who touches the upper beam … or the rods, contrad. to קֵירוֹס.בית נ׳ that portion of the web produced by passing the spool with the woof across the warp, mesh, slip. Sabb.XIII, 2 (105a) העושה שני בתי נ׳ בנִירַיִּיםוכ׳ Ms. M. (ed. בנירין) he who starts a web by making two meshes, attaching them either to the cross-pieces or to the slips (קֵירוֹס). Ib. 105a ברוחב ג׳ בתי נ׳ within a distance of three meshes; (Tosef. ib. XII (XIII), 1 על ג׳ בתים). Y. ib. VII, 10c שני נ׳ בחף … בניר אחד two sets of warp threads fastened to one old border web (licium) or two borders fastened to one set of warp threads. Shek. VIII, 5 על ע״ב נ׳וכ׳ Ms. M. a. Ar. (ed. נימין; v. Rabb. D. S. a. l., p. לד, note) the curtain was woven on seventy-two leashes, and each twist of the warp (נִימָה) contained twenty four threads; Ḥull.90b; Tam.29b נימין; Num. R. s. 4 נימין; Tanḥ. Vayaḳh. 7 נימין; ed. Bub. 10 נירים.

נִירIV m. (v. preced.; cmp. jugum a. ζυγόν, v. Sm. Ant. s. v. Tela) cross-beam of the loom, also the cross-rod under the cross-beam (liciatorium) to which the ends of the leashes are fastened; trnsf. (mostly pl.) נִירִים, נִירִין the leashes or thrums to which the threads of the warp are fastened; also the warp. Gen. R. s. 94, v. פָּתַל. B. Kam. 119b אין לוקחין … ולא נ׳ you must not buy from the weaver remnants of woof or of warp threads. Kel. XXI, 1 הנוגע … בנ׳ he who touches the upper beam … or the rods, contrad. to קֵירוֹס.בית נ׳ that portion of the web produced by passing the spool with the woof across the warp, mesh, slip. Sabb.XIII, 2 (105a) העושה שני בתי נ׳ בנִירַיִּיםוכ׳ Ms. M. (ed. בנירין) he who starts a web by making two meshes, attaching them either to the cross-pieces or to the slips (קֵירוֹס). Ib. 105a ברוחב ג׳ בתי נ׳ within a distance of three meshes; (Tosef. ib. XII (XIII), 1 על ג׳ בתים). Y. ib. VII, 10c שני נ׳ בחף … בניר אחד two sets of warp threads fastened to one old border web (licium) or two borders fastened to one set of warp threads. Shek. VIII, 5 על ע״ב נ׳וכ׳ Ms. M. a. Ar. (ed. נימין; v. Rabb. D. S. a. l., p. לד, note) the curtain was woven on seventy-two leashes, and each twist of the warp (נִימָה) contained twenty four threads; Ḥull.90b; Tam.29b נימין; Num. R. s. 4 נימין; Tanḥ. Vayaḳh. 7 נימין; ed. Bub. 10 נירים.

A leno weave in which the doup threads are caused to completely encircle their standard threads. The threads A in the illustration are over picks i, but before pick 2 they pass once round the threads B and then below pick 2. The standard threads B pass under picks 1 and over picks 2. The full-cross leno was first introduced as a fine silk fabric of the nun's veiling class.

I [sfi'lare] II [sfi'lare] vi I 1. [sfi'lare] 2. II [sfi'lare]

['filo]

A small instrument used for counting the number of threads to the inch in a fabric. The Manchester Testing House method is as follows: - The glass is placed in such a position that the extreme edge of the first thread can only just be seen; this is counted as the first thread. If the actual number of threads per inch is required, there is no better method than to measure off six inches, and count all the threads from end to end. This can be done under a glass, marking each tenth thread as a check upon the result; the ink marks should be at equal distances apart if the counting is correct, and in other ways this method facilitates correctness. At the, Manchester Testing House ten counts of reed or pick are generally made from different parts of the cloth, and the average of these is accepted.

See Drawing (Spinning) ———————— The order of drawing-in the warp threads through the eyes of the healds for weaving. The general principle is that those threads that work alike are drawn on the same stave. To avoid crowding the healds, those for weaving plain fabrics, poplins, etc., often have the ends drawn on four or six heald staves. It is a feature of weaving by healds, particularly those operated by dobbies, that very large and intricate patterns can be woven on 16 staves or less. Some drafts are so simple that they are known in the trade by name as those illustrated. Straight Over, shown at SO, in which one thread only is drawn on each stave consecutively from front to back. Skip Shaft, shown at SS, in which the threads are drawn on four staves instead of two, staves 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, being tied together to permit their operation by plain weave tappets. Point Draft, shown at P, where the first part of the draft is straight over from front to back and then returns from back to front. Double Point Draft, shown at DP, where the draft is straight over twice and from back to front twice. Broken Drafts are those not capable of being reduced to any simple regular order. See also Design, Draft and Lifting Plan. ———————— A fine, all-wool, warp ribbed cloth; used in churches during the 18th and 19th century on the Continent.

A fancy yarn composed of four threads doubled together. A hard twist two-fold thread is doubled with three other single threads in a reverse direction and with fewer turns per inch. These fancy yarns are also made of three threads doubled together in which case the hard-twist yarn is thicker than the others. Sometimes silk is used as one of the threads to give further character.

Raised needlework in Chikans, and includes native work in many parts of India in which the material itself is covered with stitches to produce a raised effect. The predominating motive in Chikan designs is floral, though butterflies, baskets and birds are also depicted. Whatever the design or pattern, it is first outlined in Muri. The material within these outlines may then be embellished with Jali or Katau, or may be worked over -with Muri without any drawing-out of threads or cutting away of fabric. Muri is done from the right side of the cloth and may be worked either with one or more threads of ordinary cotton according to the nature of the embroidery required, or with thick mercerised cotton thread, the needle being moved backwards and forwards until the vacant space has been covered with the desired thickness of embroidery. Muri work is also used in floral patterns to outline stalks in stem stitch and to represent leaves by patches of embroidery. Arekhal and Patar are varieties of Muri, differing only in thickness of the embroidery. Dhum and Chumki are varieties of Muri in which a different effect is achieved by making stitches at different angles. Bakhia is a variety of Muri, but is done from the wrong side of the cloth. The threads of the cloth are drawn together as in Jali, and ordinary or mercerised thread is used as in Muri, the result being that instead of small holes the right side of the cloth presents a series of blobs or small compact masses of embroidery.